Ottelia Coonawarra.
- The Scoffers
- Apr 9
- 3 min read
Updated: Apr 15
A masterclass of cleverness
Several years ago I had my first Ottelia experience and so for a special weekend away, I decided to take the Significant Other Scoffer for a belated anniversary lunch on a flying visit to the Cabernet capital of Australia.
I'd met and chatted with chef Paul Stone before. While I remembered the previous visit being heavy on all things pickled, dining in a different season offered something quite contrasting. With a CV that boasts stints at places like Melbourne’s Supernormal, Stone puts together a concise, no-fuss menu that shifts daily. Standouts are many across the 8 course menu, a shared experience worth indulging in, showcasing the finest ingredients sourced right from the property.
We kicked off with a seaweed cracker with tiger prawns and a house made tartare. And a pork croquette, with apple gel and both were fantastic. The simplicity highlights the levels of perfection Stone is striving for. Next up, lamb ribs poached in the buttermilk from the house made butter (more on that later), then finished on the grill, topped with tomato chutney. If there was one dish to identify as my least favourite, this was it. Lamb ribs can be difficult, and this didn't quite feel like the fat had been properly rendered. It was super tender and full of charry flavour but wasn't quite for me. Some stuffed chicken wings were both simple and clever and saw us close to half way through our feast.
Then came the bread. Stone and his team make sourdough daily from a12 year old starter and it is served with house smoked butter, made by triple cold smoking local cream before churning with the buttermilk used elsewhere. We had to order extra and though an 8 course lunch with numerous glasses of wine was already too much, we could not help ourselves.
Next up, wood smoked carrots on labne with some pickled onion and chilli was an absolute treat and if vegetarian dishes could be this well done all of the time, I could potentially, maybe, perhaps spend some time contemplating being vego. A lovely dish. Then when we thought we had hit peak goodness, a maiale tonnato was served - shaved local pork, tuna sauce and all the good bits. Just bloody delicious.
Our last savoury course arrived and we knew it would be a choice of beef or fish. Knowing of the Significant Other Scoffer's love of fish, I hope it would be so and it was. A simple grilled piece of rock ling, and on the side, tiger prawns in a Nonya curry sauce. Smoosh them together with coriander and spring onion and it was sublime. It didn't need rice, or veg or anything through it. Again, simplicity wins.
We finished with a little vanilla parfait, rhubarb gel, poached quince and honeycomb. Given we had eaten all of that fresh bread and smoked butter, we almost could have done without it.
This was a most excellent experience, and a wonderful example of local produce, done well, and without fuss. The simple things in life are often the best and we can not wait to be back for yet another Ottelia Experience.
Find Ottelia at 5 Memorial Dr, Coonawarra, SA.
Open Thursday to Monday 10am - 4pm
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